Istanbul

Cries of seagulls, chaos and multilayeredness, the smell of kebab, simits in red carts, jugglers with dondurma. After the measured and calm Lisbon, Istanbul sweeps with its energy - bazaars, mopeds, police, cordons, tourists, poor people, cats, local fashionistas. There is a feeling of a strong gap between the rich and the poor, as if special recreational areas, islands of safety and cleanliness with normal shops, restaurants, and cafes are being built for the first time. In terms of prices, Istanbul is very close to Lisbon, and sometimes even more expensive, and the quality leaves much to be desired.
I walked with thoughts about the once-read Museum of Innocence by Orhan Pamuk - of course, like the heroes of the novel, my favorite district became Nişantaşı.
As usual, I moved from specialty coffee shops to interesting architecture.
Coffee shops, matcha, and pastries
Montag coffee - a network with great lots, not cheap, but there is a fun coffee shop with co-fermentations, the ubiquitous Nestor Lasso, baristas know what they are working with. I was in Kadıköy, a good balcony over a crowded alley, sit with coffee and watch life
Probador Colectiva - an authentic location, the founder himself, Çağatay Gülabioğlu, was behind the counter, he also founded the Kronotrop network, a Tariverdiev record on the player, prizes for winning barista championships on the shelves, as well as a roasting and training center. The coffee did not impress, the roasting is omni, in my opinion, flat
Petra - a good network, I was in Nişantaşı, expensive, but the coffee is good (better in Montag), as well as cold brew, unusual lemonade with sumac. The interior is vintage, cozy, unusual, pastries and desserts are on the level. By the way, Kronotrop is in the neighboring door, but I did not go in, although it also looks nice
Kinu Matcha Bar - a real find and my favorites (although I am not a fan of matcha). We talked to the owner, the guys pay a lot of attention to the product and service. Great interior, very tasty matcha-peach-lemon grass lemonade, on my birthday, they treated me to a light matcha biscuit
Göçmen Nişantaşı Artisan Bakery - excellent pastries - an excellent choice for breakfast and not only, excellent pastries and desserts. Everything is delicious, very nice service. I took eggs with chili and basturma - traditional Turkish breakfasts - gozleme! With potatoes and cheese - top - recommended by locals, talented young chef, specialty is fish and seafood - recommended by locals, modern Turkish cuisine - manti, cute veranda, modern Turkish cuisine - doner kebab on wood, lavash from the tandoor, nice interior Natural wine, good cocktails - honestly, I doubted the existence of good Turkish wines, I sinned on the complex terroir. But here I was convinced - there are tropical petnats and worthy white autochthons. The place has Michelin stars, the concept is wine and snacks. We took hummus, ceviche, and their version of balik ekmek - sea bass on toast under a hat of finely chopped spinach. This place is one of my favorites now in Istanbul - unexpectedly, a small bar with a large selection of local wine, including natural wine, came across on the way. Good sommeliers, interesting selection, location - between Galata and İstiklal Lips Wine Bar - a small wine bar in Nişantaşı, natural wine DAMA - excellent cocktails, vinyl sets, stylish, fashionable, youthful, great vibe FLEKK - good cocktails Beyzade Karaköy (Künefe - Baklava - Kahvaltı) - you need to take künefe here! A crunchy dessert made from kataifi dough, inside young unsalted stretchy cheese. Very sweet, but worth it - take it for two or three My friend Lina, a big fan of Istanbul, created her guide for friends, I also attach it. Lina does not advise anything bad, I used her recommendations with pleasure :)